In most of Italy’s regional cuisines, herbs have a limited role. They are a little like the cymbals player in an orchestra, called upon to supply punctuation but not to carry the melody. The most prominent exception to this austerely restrained style is the cooking of the Italian Riviera. This rabbit with sage, rosemary, and basil is a good example of the unbuttoned use of herbs that gives the cooking of the Riviera a provocatively fragrant appeal that has no equivalent among the food of other Italian regions.
© 1997 Marcella Hazan estate. All rights reserved.