By Max Halley and Ben Benton
“What’s your beef all about?”
There is always a beef sandwich on the menu. This one used to be called What’s Your Beef All About? but it went away for two years and came back, so now it’s called The Original Gangster.
The meat is a rich, brooding stew, cooked overnight and it has a few excellent bedfellows:
— The punchy bite of onion. Raw, pickled, crispy, baked, whatever, onions onions onions.