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By Alan Davidson

Published 1981

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The dried roe of the grey mullet, which is called avgotáracho, is preserved in wax in Greece as in other Mediterranean countries, and I understand that it was at one time used for making Taramosaláta. On the strength of this understanding (which it would be unkind to disprove) I can count the dish as an indigenous Mediterranean one, although nowadays the Greeks always make it with imported smoked cod roe instead, as avgotáracho has become an expensive deli