I know ginger seems a little strange in a basic Italian vocabulary of ingredients, but dried ginger was popular in Roman cooking. It mysteriously disappeared for a few centuries and then reappeared with Marco Polo, when it played a part in the complicated and rich Renaissance dishes of Modena. Dried ginger is still used in Basilicata and Calabria, in Venetian cookery, and in some dishes of Florentine origin. But we don’t have to wait for the slow boat from China for ginger. It’s available fresh at nearly all our markets. Why not use it?
Puree the ginger and remaining tablespoon vermouth in a food processor; set aside.
Process the remaining
Heat the grill or broiler. Brush each fish with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Grill or broil until just cooked through, about 4 minutes each side. (The trout can also be sautéed in a little butter or olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat about 3 minutes each side.) Spread the flavored butter over the trout and serve hot with sautéed spinach or steamed snow peas or asparagus.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.