One of the most memorable tastes of my first visit to Italy was that of fresh porcini mushrooms. I saw them everywhere displayed in baskets on tables or in shop windows. I ate them thinly sliced and sautéed in the style known as trifolati, or grilled with garlic oil. We have them in California when mushroom hunters find them in the hills after the rains and bring them to the restaurant. Wonderful dried porcini are also available at Italian and gourmet markets.

One easy way to