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4
Complex
Published 1998
When I first arrived in Rome a friend recommended a Jewish restaurant named Piperno a Monte Cenci, located in the old ghetto. It became (and still is, thirty years later) my favorite restaurant in Rome. In the summer you can sit outside in a delightful courtyard and eat one of Piperno’s specialties, the fabulously elaborate fritto misto. Their classic recipe has brains, sweetbreads, and assorted vegetables, plus deep-fried bocconcini mozzarella.
Because it is one of my