Turkish Bulgur and Egg Koftes

I learned this unusual dish in the town of Birecik along the Euphrates River in Turkey. I had gone there to meet an intense young woman named Gulsen Sozmer, who was famous for her codification and preservation of old Turkish dishes from the region. As I waited for her in her living room, I was treated to a special pleasure: a rare sighting of the northern bald ibis just outside the window.

After a while Gulsen came in, holding a notebook filled with