Lemon Chicken

On a gastronomic trip to Morocco, I ate a version of this dish every evening for four days as successive smart restaurants offered it up on their set menus. It was good enough to withstand this – just. Preserved lemons can be bought in supermarkets now but are easy enough to make if you think about it in advance. Bores who worry about things being authentic will tell you that whole lemons must be used and that months must pass by before use. Just humour them. Life’s too short.