Poultry

Poultry has regularly served as the centrepiece to important meals: in medieval times, peacock or swan was the favourite and nowadays, at Christmas, a turkey or goose. Restaurants rarely suit this sort of occasion. When a chef sends out three slices of white turkey breast on a plate next to some cranberries or sage and onion stuffing, it does not have quite the same impact as the grand banquet with lots of carving at the table and passing of the port.

Similarly, a good-size turkey will take three hours to cook and needs a family of eight committed to its consumption. Smaller birds fill the restaurant’s requirements far better. Indeed, those with white meat, like partridge or guinea fowl, positively benefit from the cook’s art for they can be dry and dull if simply roasted at too high a temperature or without generous helpings of butter and oil basted over them while cooking. Wild duck breasts can be treated almost like steak, cooked quickly and served underdone, making them ideal for restaurants.