Chicken Wings

The middle segment of a chicken wing has an ideal ratio and juxtaposition of skin to meat, and they’re about as cheap as whole wings. You can cook the heck out of them, because the meat is close to the bone and the whole thing is protected by skin. In fact, we cook them three times, achieving the kind of papery crisp skin that once had Michael Pollan eating out of the palms of our hands. (This really happened