This is the recipe for the sauce we used in our signature duck-fat-fried rice. I initially tried to flavor the rice with a cold smoker—which looked like a marijuana pipe attached to a tiny motorized fan—but that was extremely time-consuming, and the rice didn’t absorb much smokiness. Then I found that charred scallions and smoked salt imparted a full smoky flavor without the hassle. If you want to make a vegan version of this sauce, use soy sauce instead of fish sauce and add some rehydrated konbu for umami.
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