I first saw Margherita Simili, the great Italian baker, demonstrate how to make these rolls at the old Peter Kump’s Cooking School in the late 1980s. Margherita was in the United States to visit and teach at numerous cooking schools. Marcella Hazan, whom she helped back then with her classes in Bologna by doing all the pasta, pastry, and breads, accompanied her that day. These rolls are both beautiful and delicious, but require just a little bit of practice to get right. The shaping is not difficult, but you do need to be careful to keep the pieces of dough uniform in size and shape so that the finished rolls look attractive and appetizing.