“Pizza chiena” is Neapolitan dialect for what would be called “pizza ripiena” or filled pizza in Italian. Originally this pastry was made like a giant turnover with a raw pizza crust—the type used for a standard large individual pizza in Naples—and filled with ricotta and cured meats before being folded over and baked. It is the ancestor of what pizzerias now call a calzone. By and by, the pizza crust was transformed into a pastry dough, though there are some versions of pizza chiena that use a yeast-risen crust that recalls the original pizza crust. The assortment of cured meats and cheeses here is a fairly standard one, though it varies from town to town, and even family by family, so don’t be afraid to experiment with your own combinations-it’s thoroughly Italian to do that. This recipe is based on information from two dear friends, Ann Amendolara Nurse and Anna Teresa Callen, who is the author of numerous books on Italian cooking. Please note that there is no salt in the filling—the meats and cheeses, especially the Pecorino Romano, are salty enough.