Peas with Horseradish

Early on, we did a lot of our supplementary shopping at the local bodegas. (Even today, I’m really happy as a cook when I realize we need something we don’t have but there’s a 24-hour deli two blocks away stocked with five brands of everything.) I was in one getting stuff—I think Kewpie mayonnaise, which you can find at a surprising number of East Village bodegas—and while I was waiting in line, I just was staring at this bag of wasabi peas near the checkout. It was June; peas were in seaso