There are a lot of restaurants in Spain with a horno de leña (wood-fired oven) at its heart. The fires are lit first thing in the morning and go well into the day. All day and night whole suckling pigs, half lambs and pieces of goat are cooked in giant terracotta trays. The steady heat cooks the meat evenly, slowly easing the meat off the bone, and the embers give the flesh a slightly smoky quality.
If you have a wood-fired oven this is the perfect excuse to light it up. A ma