THERE ARE STILL ROUGH-AND-READY TYPES IN THE HILLS OF SIERRA DE FRANCIA. ONE OF THEM IS JOAQUÍN. HE LIVES JUST OUTSIDE MIRANDA DEL CASTAÑAR ON HIS PLOT OF LAND. HE HAS NEVER MARRIED AND COMES TO TOWN ONCE A WEEK FOR SUPPLIES, AND TO DELIVER SOME OF HIS CHERRIES WHEN THEY ARE IN SEASON. HE USED TO WALK INTO TOWN, BUT AFTER HE SHOT HIMSELF IN THE FOOT HE FOUND IT EASIER TO RIDE ON HIS DONKEY THAT, FOR THE RECORD, IS BLIND IN ONE EYE, ACCOMPANIED BY AN ENTOURAGE OF THREE LOPING HUNTING DOGS AND TWO PRANCING GOATS. THE CHERRIES GROW WILD IN THE RIVER VALLEYS. MEDIUM-SIZED AND NOT OVERBLOWN WITH WATER, THEY’RE DARK, SLIGHTLY TART AND WONDERFULLY FLAVOURED. I’VE NAMED THIS DESSERT IN HIS HONOUR, USING BEST-QUALITY CHERRIES, GOAT’S CURD ICE CREAM (JOAQUÍN CAN’T USE AN ICE CREAM MAKER AS HE DOESN’T HAVE ELECTRICITY) AND ANIS LIQUEUR (WHICH I’M SURE, JUDGING BY THE WAY HE RIDES HIS DONKEY, HE IS FAMILIAR WITH). USING FRESH GOAT’S CURD IN THIS DESSERT RETAINS ITS RUSTIC TEXTURE.