VISITING A SPANISH FISH MARKET CAN BE LIKE VISITING A PARALLEL UNIVERSE. THE FISH AND SEA CREATURES ALL LOOK STRANGELY FAMILIAR BUT ALL SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT. THERE ARE DORADA, WHICH ARE SIMILAR TO OUR BREAM, AND PARGO, WHICH AS FAR AS I CAN WORK OUT ARE SNAPPER. THERE ARE THE WILDLY SOUGHT-AFTER MERLUZA (HAKE) — A FEARSOME-LOOKING CREATURE WE DON’T HAVE. THEN THERE’S BACALAO FRESCO, OR FRESH COD: SWEET, FIRM-FLESHED WHITE FISH WE SIMPLY DON’T FIND IN OUR WATERS. WE’RE USING GROPER HERE TO MAKE THIS SIMPLE BUT LIVELY ROASTED FISH DISH. IT’S STARTED OFF IN AN EXTREMELY HOT PAN OR FLAT GRILL, FINISHED IN A MODERATE OVEN AND DRESSED WITH AJADA — A HOT OIL FLAVOURED WITH GARLIC AND CHILLI.