WHEN I FIRST STARTED COOKING I TOOK GREAT PRIDE IN MAKING CREPES: A SIMPLE WAY OF TURNING FLOUR, EGGS AND MILK INTO SOMETHING REALLY SPECIAL. IT’S A SIGN OF A GOOD COOK TO TURN OUT A GOOD CREPE EVERY TIME. WHEN I WAS COOKING IN BIESCAS IN THE PYRENEES I WAS MAKING HUNDREDS A DAY, WITH FOUR OR FIVE PANS GOING AT ONCE. MY VERSION CALLED FOR 5 KG (11 LB) OF FLOUR AND DIDN’T WORK OUT WELL WHEN MADE FOR SMALLER BATCHES. THIS CREPE RECIPE IS BASED ON A VERSION BY ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S GREAT CHEFS, STEPHANIE ALEXANDER, WHO GLADLY ALLOWED US TO SHARE HER RECIPE.

I HAD SOME CREPES SERVED LIKE THIS IN A ROADSIDE TRUCK-STOP CAFE ON THE MAIN HIGHWAY BETWEEN GALICIA AND PORTUGAL. IMAGINE EATING THESE LIGHT CREPES FILLED WITH SOFT APPLE ON A COLD GALICIAN NIGHT WHEN THE RAIN IS POUNDING DOWN, THE FIRE IS SLOWLY BURNING AND THERE’S A LITTLE GLASS OF ORUJO — DISTILLED SPIRIT MADE FROM ALBARIÑO — WAITING WHEN YOU’RE FINISHED.