Pulling Brussels sprouts apart is well worth the effort, but I go to the trouble only once a year, to go with our masala-grilled Parsi turkey. I owe this idea completely to David Tanis and Alan Tangren, café chefs at Chez Panisse in the 1980s. There they were one fall afternoon, patiently turning a case of Brussels sprouts into a fluffy mound, pulling them apart leaf by leaf.