Make the marinade the night before, or at least 2 hours before cooking. Place the steaks in a mixing bowl and pour over 3 tablespoons fish sauce, 1 tablespoon mushroom dark soy sauce, half the sugar and 1 crushed garlic clove. Combine gently, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Refrigerate if resting overnight.
Drizzle some oil in a flameproof casserole dish or heavy saucepan and lay the drained salmon steaks, pineapple and the remaining crushed garlic clove on top. Add the remaining fish sauce, mushroom dark soy sauce, sugar and some salt. Cover with water and bring to the boil. Adjust the seasoning (the sauce should be both sweet and salty), then carefully turn the steaks over. Cook at a gentle simmer on a low heat, covered, for 20–25 minutes. The sauce should reduce to just a caramelised layer in the bottom of the pan; if this is not the case, uncover and continue to reduce for a few minutes.
Garnish with coriander, season generously with pepper and serve with white rice and a salad or soup.
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