Vittoria Genovese, a wonderful cook from the Lunigiana region of Liguria, was amazed that I’d never heard of panigacci. To correct the gap in my pasta experience, she whipped up a thin batter in a flash and then spooned it onto a hot griddle, essentially making crepes. She stacked them in layers, painting a wash of pesto and sprinkles of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese between each one and the next, and served up the simplest and most delicious pasta torte in a matter of