La Genovese

This dish is real home cooking, something that you would never find in a restaurant. It was once the sauce made by poor people in Naples for Sundays and holidays before it was supplanted by the now famous ragù. It uses the same principle as ragù—the vegetables cook for a long time with a piece of meat that benefits from long cooking. Of the three women who gave me their recipes for la Genovese, two purposefully omit tomatoes and carrots, even though their mothers and aunts always used them.