Renata Marsili of Lucca, a cook with a glorious repertoire of dishes, assures me that this recipe works equally well with rabbit, chicken, or game. Whenever I think about trying one of the options, I can never renounce the lamb, so perhaps I’ll never know. Pouring in the wine, Signora Marsili used a Lucchese expression to explain that the wine gives “il sapore di rigno” (“a somewhat wild taste”). Easy to prepare but unusual, this becomes a spectacula