Perata

When Luce Galante de Secly makes this delicious pear jam, she uses intensely perfumed rosy-colored Italian petruccine pears that are firm, juicy, and sweet. They appear in June and July, the earliest pears of the year, and are so small that until recently most Italians routinely fed them to the pigs. It was just too much trouble to bother with the seeds and cores. Luce peels her pears but most women do not.

To reproduce the extraordinary tas