La Mouclade

I first ate mouclade in the Restaurant de la Marée at La Rochelle, a long-established seafood restaurant which is situated not merely near but actually in the wholesale fish market. Despite the lunch-time bustle as some sixty people tackled platters of seafood (which were correctly called Grande Sélection de Fruits de la Mer, each containing fifteen different seafoods and measuring up to a metre in length), I was able to ask whether their mouclade contained saffron. The answer was that when