Slow-Roasted Tomatoes

Stewed tomatoes, an old-fashioned side dish, can be wonderful but are a little fussy to make. Instead, I begin with the ripest summer tomatoes, peeled or not (I usually don’t), and slow-roast them in olive oil perfumed with garlic and herbs. As they cook, their sweetness is concentrated. These tomatoes are wonderful served warm or at room temperature with grilled fish—no other sauce needed. I also like them cold the next day with a few slices of mozzarella, a dab of fresh ricotta, or some c