Pork-and-Potato Gumbis with Wild Mushrooms

I cannot accurately date this classic Gumbis recipe, but it has all the stylistic components of the late eighteenth century — the introduction of potatoes, for instance. More importantly, cumin is a key flavoring ingredient, and the Thick-Milk Sauce pulls it all together in an unusual yet tasty way.

When the Pennsylvania Dutch said wild mushrooms, they meant morels, which appear in the woods of our region in great abundance toward the end of April. Where morels are not availa