Mashed Potatoes

If you’re going to put mashed potatoes on pizza, they should be really good. This is a recipe for really good mashed potatoes. It’s also an example of how executing little things well can almost be more important than measurements. For instance, boiling potatoes for the right time—not so short they’re still raw, and not too long they’re falling apart—you want to hit that sweet spot where they’re fork-tender and you drain and air-dry them. Using a ricer, or a masher if you don’t have one, is