Puerto Rican Pork Shoulder

For years I had been trying to re-create a lechon (spit-roasted hog) I tasted in a village on the way to El Yunque rain forest in Puerto Rico—a pork shoulder as remarkable for its steamy, tender, garlic- and oregano-scented meat as for its spectacularly crisp skin. (This was back in the days before I wrote about barbecue.) Then Steve Cannon e-mailed me a description of the very dish I’d wanted to reconstruct for so long. The secret, it turns out, is simple: You remove the skin, seaso