This is like the luxury auto version of regular brown soda’s runabout car. It’s got a heap of extra bran in it, sometimes an egg, and either buttermilk or yogurt. All of us home bakers trying to make this are trying to emulate McCambridge’s, which has been purveying this dense and fragrantly wheaty bread since the 1930's. Their version is, fair enough, a trade secret, and if I could get McCambridge’s regularly in New York, I would never bake it myself again. Until that day comes, however, this version comes pretty close. Part of the secret is the wheat bran, and part is the very wet dough, which requires a loaf pan. You don’t have to use butter or an egg—the commercial brands don’t contain any—but they help make a moister bread for home cooks.
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