This is a simple but always delicious preparation that relies on the freshness of the fish being used. Although this preparation is done in a baking dish, there is a version used on fishing boats that employs a skillet. Typically, a Ligurian cook uses per serving one small whole fish that came from the sea only shortly before being cooked. Among the choices are orata (gilthead), branzino (sea bass), or triglia (red mullet). You may also use a small red snapper or another pink- or white-fleshed fish that is not too delicate in flavor. See the photograph in the second section of color illustrations.