Sea Kale with Morels and Butter Sauce

Sea kale – Cramba marítima – is a native English vegetable still growing wild near some sea shores. It isn’t yet cultivated widely but is available, forced like rhubarb, in late winter. With its delicate flavour and exquisite crisp texture this vegetable is an aristocrat like asparagus.

Sea kale has been neglected in the past but is now grown commercially in Brittany and is available in Britain via the Paris market at the end of February and during March. The inevitable insul