The bread and butter cases afford an attractive presentation but may be replaced by a scattering of croutons. To easily carve the cases, the bread should be of a relatively heavy, firm-textured body and not too fresh. Light-bodied loaves will have to be deep frozen to be workable.
Chanterelles throw off much more liquid in contact with heat than any of the other commonly used mushrooms and this liquid should be drained off. It is flavorful and may be added to soups or reduced to a syrup and added to sauces—in particular the butter-bound juices of sautéed chicken or rabbit that take the sautéed chanterelles as garnish. If the chanterelles were permitted to remain in their juices until those juices were reduced and reabsorbed, they would become tough and rubbery from overcooking. After having picked them over, discarding any spongy specimens and trimming earthy stem tips, wash them briskly, drain them, and put them, lightly sprinkled with salt, into a heavy, tightly covered saucepan over a high flame. Hold the lid tightly in place and shake the pan over the flame to prevent their sticking to the bottom. No sooner will the heat have thoroughly penetrated them than they will be completely submerged in their liquid. As soon as it reaches a full, foamy boil, remove the chanterelles from the heat, drain them in a sieve, pressing gently with the back of a wooden spoon, and put them aside. Raw, chanterelles should be absolutely fresh, firm, and dry, but, once heated and drained, they may be refrigerated for a day or so in a tightly covered bowl without suffering.
Use a sharp and sharply pointed paring knife to hollow out the bread cases, cutting downward to within about
Stew the chanterelles gently in a heavy saucepan with about
Copyright © 1974 by Richard Olney. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.