Two Stuffed Zucchini Gratins

Deux Gratins de Courgettes Farcies

Preparation info

  • Difficulty

    Medium

Appears in

Simple French Food

By Richard Olney

Published 1974

  • About

Method

Recipes for stuffed vegetables should not be taken too seriously—at least insofar as the ingredients for the fillings are concerned; vegetables may be stuffed with practically anything, and, if a bit of common sense is brought to the composition, they cannot help being good. Leftover roast, boiled or stewed meats or poultry often find their way, chopped, into these stuffings. Stock meats, although most of their goodness has been drained from them, may be ground or finely chopped—revivified by a larger than usual dose of herbs and a pinch of cayenne, they provide an absolutely respectable base. Something alliaceous always gives a spark of life; soaked, squeezed bread, precooked rice, leftover mashed potatoes, or chopped leftover pasta will lend lightness and consistency; egg is for binding and cheese both for sapid relief and textural coherence. Throughout this treatise, Parmesan and Gruyère have been recommended to the exclusion of other grating cheeses and there can be no doubt but that, along with aged Cheshire, they are the best—but other firm cheeses that may have become too unsightly, too dry, or too strongly flavored for continued use on the cheese platter should certainly not be discarded; the various tommes and related cheeses or Cantal serve this purpose well, and if American Cheddar continued to resemble its English parent, so would it. Dry goat cheese, become too sharp or too salty to be pleasant as an eating cheese, may, used discreetly, be an interesting and unusual flavoring agent.

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