Roast Calf’s Liver

• 1 whole calf’s liver (or a 2-pound section of veal liver), surface membrane removed
• Olive oil

Choose a heavy, low-sided container just large enough to hold the roast with a bit of space around—a small skillet or an enameled ironware gratin dish, for instance. Rub the liver liberally with olive oil, sprinkle it with salt, and put it into a 450° oven: Its specific treatment will depend on the quality of the oven; it should be seared at high heat, continue cooking at low heat, and relax at