In old cookbooks, andouillette, boudin, and saucisse are more or less interchangeable terms, the first two identifying practically any bound and precooked mixture that takes the form of a sausage, is usually but not necessarily stuffed into a sausage casing, and is reheated by grilling (an andouille is a large andouillette and shares with cornichon the additional and derogatory meaning of “dolt”); The Cuisinier Méridional (1855), for instance, gives one recipe for andouillettes whose stuffing is a truffled mixture of lambs’ sweetbreads, chopped roast chicken, chicken livers, and the roof of beef mouth, bound with a stiff velouté and eggs and another of pounded, cooked white meats, cow’s udder, and panade with beaten egg whites added.
Today andouillette means chitterling sausage and boudin most often means boudin noir, or blood sausage (boudin blanc is casing stuffed with a pounded raw white meat—chicken or pork—and panade quenelle forcemeat and poached).
Prepare these sausages in advance (they may be kept refrigerated for several days—or they may be deep frozen) and, before being served, bring them to room temperature, rub them with olive oil, and grill over hot wood coals (or broil) until golden and slightly crisp—about 10 minutes, turning every 2 or 3 minutes. A generously buttered, fine-textured lentil purée accompanies them perfectly—as does a potato purée.
Chopping the different meats separately by hand, to varying degrees of finesse, is a valuable refinement, but, pressed for time, you may put everything together through a meat grinder with satisfactory results.
If you cannot get blood, eliminate it rather than discarding the recipe; if you cannot find sausage casing, fashion the boudins by hand, rolling them in flour, place them in a large, buttered plat à sauter or skillet, pour in boiling water (against the side of the pan so as not to disturb the quenelles) to cover generously and poach at the suggestion of a simmer, covered, for 10 minutes; remove to a pastry grill to drain and cool and wrap individually in plastic or aluminum foil for storing. Dip in egg and roll in breadcrumbs, cooking until crisp and golden in half butter and half olive oil (or baste with butter and grill).