In old cookbooks, andouillette, boudin, and saucisse are more or less interchangeable terms, the first two identifying practically any bound and precooked mixture that takes the form of a sausage, is usually but not necessarily stuffed into a sausage casing, and is reheated by grilling (an andouille is a large andouillette and shares with cornichon the additional and derogatory meaning of “dolt”);
Today andouillette means chitterling sausage and boudin most often means boudin noir, or blood sausage (boudin blanc is casing stuffed with a pounded raw white meat—chicken or pork—and panade quenelle forcemeat and poached).
Prepare these sausages in advance (they may be kept refrigerated for several days—or they may be deep frozen) and, before being served, bring them to room temperature, rub them with olive oil, and grill over hot wood coals (or broil) until golden and slightly crisp—about 10 minutes, turning every 2 or 3 minutes. A generously buttered, fine-textured lentil purée accompanies them perfectly—as does a potato purée.
Chopping the different meats separately by hand, to varying degrees of finesse, is a valuable refinement, but, pressed for time, you may put everything together through a meat grinder with satisfactory results.
If you cannot get blood, eliminate it rather than discarding the recipe; if you cannot find sausage casing, fashion the boudins by hand, rolling them in flour, place them in a large, buttered plat à sauter or skillet, pour in boiling water (against the side of the pan so as not to disturb the quenelles) to cover generously and poach at the suggestion of a simmer, covered, for 10 minutes; remove to a pastry grill to drain and cool and wrap individually in plastic or aluminum foil for storing. Dip in egg and roll in breadcrumbs, cooking until crisp and golden in half butter and half olive oil (or baste with butter and grill).
Boil the milk and the bread together, stirring and, finally, beating with a wooden spoon until the panade is stiff and homogeneous. Add to the chopped meats, mixing loosely.
Add the blood to the stewed onions and cook over very gentle heat for about 5 minutes, stirring. Stir into the bread and meat mixture—enough to attenuate the heat, then add all the other ingredients, mixing and squishing well with hands. Taste for seasoning (not very pleasant in this condition—spit out).
Soak the intestinal membrane in tepid water acidulated with vinegar until soft and supple. Lacking professional material, it is easier to cut the casing into 2-foot lengths. Use a large plastic funnel to stuff them, gently stretching one end up and around the funnel tube to receive the stuffing and leaving the other end untied until the entire length of casing is stuffed (to avoid trapping air inside). Force the stuffing through the funnel with your fingers and into place in the casing, squeezing or forcing with your hands, and molding each 2-foot length into 4 very loosely packed sausages, no air bubbles remaining inside. Tie the ends with string and twist, tying at intervals to form the sausages.
Slip them into a large pot of hot but not boiling water, bring barely to the boiling point, and poach at the suggestion of a simmer for 10 minutes. Drain, drop them into a basin of cold water until cooled, and then drain on absorbent paper, gently sponging them dry before wrapping to store.
Copyright © 1974 by Richard Olney. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.