It’s even better the next day, in tacos. Put it in a saucepan and reheat, adding a little cayenne and more ground cumin, if you’d like. Set out little bowls of toppings: crumbled cotija or feta cheese, sprigs of fresh cilantro, sliced fresh serrano chiles, pickled onions, lime wedges, shredded cabbage. Warm corn tortillas in a hot, dry heavy skillet, flipping each one twice with your fingers or tongs; wrap them in a clean tea towel or cloth napkin as you warm them.
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