Split Pea Soup

I never liked split pea soup until I started experimenting with lighter recipes—not the porridgelike interpretations I remember from my childhood. This version is quite lovely even though I cheat a bit by adding some frozen peas to give it a bright color and a fresher taste.

Before you use split peas, spill them out on a sheet pan and check them for pebbles. Then rinse them in a large strainer and let them drain.