The humble elderflower, growing rampant on commons and often just where we don’t want it in a garden, neither looks nor smells particularly promising. Yet, mysteriously, it gives to cordials and sorbets, and to gooseberries and apricots, a divine flavour reminiscent of the best muscatel grapes.
Top and tail the gooseberries. Cut the apricots in half and remove the stones. Put the fruit into a saucepan with the sugar and the strained orange and lemon juice. Add barely enough water almost to cover the fruit. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and shake in just the flowers from the elderflower heads. Return to the heat and boil f