Lee Chun Hock is a jocular grill master who plies his trade in northern Malaysia. I met him on Gurney Road on Penang Island, where he runs a barbecue stall called Ipoh Famous Roasted Chicken Wings. (Ipoh is the name of his boss.) Hock’s “pit” is a gleaming stainless rotisserie, where spring chickens are roasted snap crackle poppingly crisp over a charcoal fire. He offered me the following recipe on the condition that I give him a winning lottery number. I told him my age, birthday, and street address. I hope he won!
The powerfully flavorful marinade has everything you could wish for: soy sauce for saltiness, sugar and ketjap manis for sweetness, and star anise and cinnamon sticks for spice. The basting of sesame oil gives the wings a nutty crispness.
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