This rustic pie, perfect for a light supper or a light luncheon entree, comes from the French town of Poudenas, a lovely village set amid the rolling hills of Lot-et-Garonne. Poudenas, with its pink houses, eleventh-century château up on a hill, and wonderful food tradition, is a town you can fall in love with.
In the Southwest of France, wild leeks are called baragnes; they are foraged in vineyards in the month of May. Since the garlicky flavor of these is best preserved with gentle cooking, they are most frequently found in omelets, soups, and savory pies, like this one. French wild leeks are almost the same as our American ramps. If you don’t live along the North American “ramp trail, ” which runs all the way from Quebec and Minnesota to the Carolinas, you can mail order them in the spring.
The Cooking of Southwest France by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2005 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.