The trick to getting the best flavor in this dish is to finish cooking the spaghetti in the pan along with the sauce so the pasta absorbs the juices that the clams gave off as they steamed open. The clams that take the longest to steam open are the freshest -- don’t discard them. Do, however, discard clams that are open when you buy them and don’t snap shut if you tap them; they are dead.
© 1993 Giuliano Hazan. All rights reserved.