Quenelles de Brochet, Sauce Nantua

The hit of the 1939 New York World’s Fair, gastronomically speaking, was the French pavilion. Its restaurant offered fairgoers a taste of what they might find in an important restaurant of the day in Lyon. Lyon was the hometown of Henri Soulé, the mastermind of the pavilion, but he never went back. At least not for long. Hitler began marching into Poland that summer. The rest of Europe fought back by sitting still. Soulé had no intention of