Northern-Style Chinese Roast Pork

Cantonese delicatessens with their broad and sometimes steamy windows are great street theater for strollers through Western Chinatowns. For hours everyday, there is a double show—ducks and chickens and pork and innards hanging from meat hooks in a crowded array of conceivable and incomprehensible postures, dripping their juices into pans of cooked foods beneath, and the dextrous countermen who wield immense cleavers over round wooden cutting boards that look centuries old. The show is wond