Caramelized Tofu Triangles

A surprising number of people feel duty-bound to like tofu in its primal form—white, mushy, and tastelessly pure. For those who don’t, here is tofu of another color, turned firm and chewy by a brief immersion in hot oil, then caramelized to a deep mahogany brown by a glaze of brown sugar and soy.

• This is one of the most appealing cold dishes I know. It is neither too sweet nor too pure—one of those engaging middles that draws people from both camps. Serve it as