Hot punches like this one were winter drinks, served at balls and at holiday celebrations such as Christmas and New Year’s. The original title of the recipe was Punch au thé à l’anglaise, pointing out, once again, the association of the English with black tea. It comes from Alfred Suzanne’s 1904 book La Cuisine et pâtisserie anglaise et américaine, which was aimed at French chefs aspiring to work in the United Kingdom or the United States. It purported to contain all the recipes that each nation regarded as a necessity on its tables. It was an odd claim, since in the author’s view there really was no need for any type of food that wasn’t French. For an added flourish, hang orange peel strips over the edge of the punch bowl.