Cook the potatoes in salted water until soft. Drain, dry and put through a sieve. Bring the milk, butter and nutmeg to the boil and mix in the flour.
Over the heat, stir the mixture until it leaves the sides of the pan clean. Add the eggs one by one and finally the potato. Mix until smooth. Take soup-spoonfuls of this mixture and deep-fry until golden.
Mark Twain, a great potato lover (he is said to have brought his American cook to London out of reluctance at being parted from her creamed potatoes), was guest of honour at a banquet hosted by Kaiser Wilhelm IIof Germany. The one thing he remembered about the evening was the potatoes, which reminded him of his boyhood in Missouri. An apprentice on a newspaper, he used to steal potatoes from the editor’s cellar and cook them on the print shop’s stove.
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