This smoky, springtime recipe has been adapted from one served by Paul Neuman, who with his vibrant wife Stacy Bogdonoff runs a take-out and catering place on Manhattan’s Upper East Side (Neuman & Bogdonoff, natch).
Cook bacon in large skillet until lightly browned, not crisped. Drain and reserve fat. Halve bacon crosswise, then cut into very thin lengthwise strips.
Cut apart leek leaves and bulbs. Wrap and refrigerate three-quarters of the leaves for another use (such as vinaigrette). Slice thin the remaining leaves and bulbs. (There should be about ½ cups.)