Beet, Water Cress, and Kiwi Salad

Beets for cold dishes and hot dishes are best cooked to different stages. The firm, crunchy texture and distinct earthy sweetness of short-cooked beets delight in the former—and come as a rude surprise in the latter. If you can locate small cylindrical beets, cook twice as many and slice into rounds to alternate with the kiwi slices. This festive, colorful salad suits smoked poultry, tongue, or fish—whether on the side, or tossed in as julienne to make a main dish.