Thick, soft tetragonia absorbs cream while it retains its special succulent density; it does not “deflate” like other greens. Although there is a hint of okra, the general effect is of creamed spinach with more distinct leaves and bouncier body.
2 medium scallions (green onions), halved lengthwise and thin-sliced
¼teaspoondried tarragon, crumbled to powder
Strip leaves from tetragonia stalks. Nip off terminal sprigs and any buds. Discard large stalks. Swish leaves and buds in several changes of water; drain.
Drop into a large pot of boiling salted water. Return to a full rolling boil. Drain.
Combine cream, scallions, salt, and tarragon in heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Add drained leaves. Reduce heat and simmer, partly covered, stirring often, until leaves are tender 5 to 10 minutes.
Uncover, raise heat slightly, and simmer, stirring often, until cream has reduced to desired consistency and leaves are well coated—a few minutes.